"The 2018 Chardonnay Malans "Unique" is Martin Donatsch's Grand Cru, and its character is that of a great Burgundy. This is super clear, deep, fresh and complex on the bright and stony-chalky but also fruit-intense nose, which is only initially reductive but gets finer and fresher with aeration. This is a full-bodied, lush, ripe and elegant wine with remarkable finesse, fine tannins and mineral freshness that lifts the finish into stimulating heights. Very salty, and all the power is carried away by a highway built on salt. The finish is tight, intense and very complex. The "Unique" remains one of the finest Chardonnay from Switzerland. The 2018 is already accessible but shows a tight tannic and mineral grip that gives great hope for the future. A pity I couldn't directly compare it side by side with the 2017, which I had several weeks before and published that review earlier this month, but it seemed to have even more freshness and tension. Tasted in January 2020.
I have been waiting with great excitement to taste Martin Donatsch's red 2018s, which I pre-tasted from the barrels a year ago when his father, Swiss icon producer and DRC collector Thomas, drew parallels with the phenomenal 1947 vintage. The whites have already been bottled and, as always, will be hard to find due to the exceptionally high demand. However, the Pinots, except for the "Tradition," were still waiting to be bottled in January this year when Martin sent me two barrel samples of each of his other 2018 Pinots: Passion and Unique, a filtered and an unfiltered version. Only the filtered version will be on the market, but I didn't want to wait with my tasting until after the bottling, because then I would have to wait some months until the bottle shock would be over. So, my scores can only be estimations, whereas there is no doubt about the outstanding quality of the 2018s. They combine perfect ripeness and intensity with finesse and freshness and will age for a very long time."
(Stephan Reinhardt, robertparker.com)
|Flaschengröße:||75 cl - Bouteille, Normalflasche|
|Typ:||Weißwein Weißwein trocken|
|Ausbau:||Gärung und Ausbau in 100% neuen, französischen Piéce (228l)|
|Durchschnittliche Jahresproduktion:||1.200 bis 1.800 Flaschen|
|Boden:||Schiefer- und Kalkböden|
|Alkoholgehalt:||13,5 % vol|
|Bewertung Daniel Nussbaum:||95+/100|
|Importeur:||Lobenbergs Gute Weine GmbH & Co. KG, Tiefer 10, 28195 Bremen|
|Abgefüllt von:||Weingut Donatsch, Sternengasse 6, 7208 Malans, Schweiz|